From checkpoint to checkpoint: A journey through Malawi’s roads

6 Min Read
Sharp Focus with Burnet Munthali

What began as an ordinary journey from Lilongwe towards Mchinji gradually turned into a revealing account of life on Malawi’s roads, as the MaraviPost encountered a succession of police checkpoints, routine inspections, an alleged demand for money and an unexpected attempt to bypass a roadblock.

The journey provided a rare opportunity to observe, from inside a public minibus, how passengers and transport operators experience roadside law enforcement along one of Malawi’s busy routes.

Only a few minutes after leaving Lilongwe, the MaraviPost encountered a second police checkpoint near a Malawi Revenue Authority (MRA) facility. The officers on duty conducted their routine activities and allowed the minibus to proceed without significant delay.

For the passengers, it was a brief interruption rather than a major obstacle.

But the journey soon produced another checkpoint encounter. Six minutes after passing the previous stop, the minibus was again pulled over. This time, the driver presented a general receipt, a document that had not been noticed during the earlier inspection shortly after the Lilongwe Bridge.

After the relevant documents were checked, the vehicle was allowed to continue.

The repeated encounters illustrated how frequently motorists and public transport operators can come into contact with law-enforcement officers while travelling along Malawi’s major roads.

Yet not every checkpoint experience was the same.

At the Busy Bee roadblock, the driver later returned to the minibus and alleged that police officers had demanded money before allowing him to proceed.

According to the driver, the officers used the Chichewa expression “Tikakudyerani kuti,” which he understood in the circumstances to mean that money was expected.

The driver subsequently parked the minibus on the roadside while passengers waited.

The MaraviPost did not independently establish whether any money was ultimately paid and has not verified the circumstances surrounding the alleged exchange. The account remains an allegation made by the driver.

The experience raised an important question about the relationship between roadside enforcement and public confidence. Police checkpoints are an essential component of road safety and law enforcement, but allegations of unofficial payments require serious attention because they can undermine confidence in public institutions.

Further along the journey, the atmosphere changed.

At Mpingu, the minibus encountered another police roadblock but was allowed to pass without an extended inspection. The same happened at Msundwe, where the vehicle moved through the checkpoint without interruption.

The MaraviPost later encountered the Msundwe checkpoint again and, once more, was allowed to proceed without being stopped or delayed.

At 11:25 a.m., another checkpoint was encountered at Namitete. Again, the vehicle passed without interruption.

The journey, however, took a dramatic turn around Zalewa when the driver received a warning concerning what some minibus and taxi operators refer to as “040”—a term used by some drivers in reference to police officers or checkpoints they are seeking to avoid.

Instead of continuing towards the suspected checkpoint, the driver turned off the main road and attempted to use a makeshift route through a farm.

What appeared to be an escape route quickly became another problem.

A man controlling passage through the makeshift route reportedly refused to allow the minibus to proceed. According to the driver, an initial offer of K2,000 was rejected, after which the amount was reportedly increased to K5,000.

The man allegedly maintained that even if he accepted the money, other people further along the farm route were also controlling passage.

Another minibus subsequently arrived and was also prevented from using the route.

The situation left the passengers facing an uncertain choice: remain on the farm route or return to the main road and face the authorities.

At one point, the driver appeared ready to surrender to the authorities and accept whatever consequences might follow.

Then circumstances changed unexpectedly.

A police checkpoint intercepted another minibus travelling from the Mchinji direction, creating an opening for the MaraviPost vehicle to continue.

The driver seized the opportunity and proceeded.

Relief swept through the minibus, with passengers expressing gratitude to God. Some were heard saying “Mulungu simunthu,” reflecting their belief that divine intervention had helped them at a difficult moment.

The journey continued, but the encounters did not end there.

At Waliranji, the MaraviPost again encountered a police checkpoint. The driver bypassed the stop and continued along the route.

At 11:58 a.m., another checkpoint was encountered at Waliranji, and the minibus again passed without being stopped.

For the passengers, the repeated encounters produced a mixture of relief, uncertainty and reflection.

The day’s journey demonstrated that travelling by public transport in Malawi is about more than simply moving from one town to another. It involves interactions with police officers, document inspections, road conditions, vehicle regulations and, in some cases, decisions by drivers about how to navigate checkpoints.

There is an important balance to be maintained.

Law-enforcement officers have a responsibility to ensure that vehicles and drivers comply with the law, while transport operators have a duty to obey regulations and protect their passengers. At the same time, enforcement must be conducted professionally, fairly and without unnecessary delays or demands for unofficial payments.

Public transport remains central to Malawi’s daily economic life. Minibuses carry workers, traders, students and families between communities, towns and trading centres.

Every checkpoint therefore represents an encounter between citizens and the state.

When that encounter is professional and efficient, passengers can continue their journeys with confidence. When allegations of misconduct arise, however, they deserve proper scrutiny rather than being ignored.

The MaraviPost’s journey from Lilongwe towards Mchinji offered a snapshot of these realities—from routine checkpoints at MRA, Mpingu, Msundwe and Namitete to the more complicated experiences at Busy Bee and Waliranji.

Sharp Focus is not about condemning every police checkpoint or portraying every officer negatively. It is about observing what happens on the ground and asking legitimate questions about how Malawi’s roads are policed.

The journey also demonstrates why responsible journalism matters.

Some encounters were straightforward. Others were unexpected. One involved an allegation that remains unverified. Another involved a dramatic attempt to use a farm bypass. Throughout, the MaraviPost observed, recorded and reported what happened while distinguishing between direct observations and allegations.

Ultimately, Malawians deserve roads where law enforcement is effective, motorists are compliant, passengers are protected and public officers carry out their duties with integrity.

The journey to Mchinji may have been just another trip for some passengers.

For the MaraviPost, it became a moving window into the everyday realities of travelling on Malawi’s roads.

That is the story behind the checkpoints—and that is where the Sharp Focus remains.

Feedback: +265884433313
bonnetmunthali2101@gmail.com

Burnett Munthali

Burnett Munthali is a Maravipost Political analyst (also known as political scientists) he covers Malawi political systems, how they originated, developed, and operate. he researches and analyzes the Malawi and Regional governments, political ideas, policies, political trends, and foreign relations.

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